Charleston, South Carolina

We were excited to get to South Carolina for two reasons - to learn more about South Carolina’s role in the Civil War and to finally have some nice weather!!

As you can see, we had beautiful weather for our day to go into Charleston!

 South Carolina holds the distinction of being the first state to secede from the Union in December 1860 shortly after Abraham Lincoln was elected President, and was one of the founding member states of the Confederacy in February 1861. The Confederate bombardment of the U.S. garrison at Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor on April 12, 1861 is generally recognized as the first military engagement of the war. Fort Sumter is a sea fort built on an artificial island protecting Charleston from invasion. The four million bricks that were used to build Fort Sumter were produced by slaves at various South Carolina plantations. 

Once the Union Forces abandoned the Fort, Confederates occupied it and allowed the Confederates to create a valuable “hole” in the Union blockade of the Atlantic seaboard. In fact, Gone with the Wind fans might remember that Rhett Butler engaged in blockade running and brought food, supplies, items from England to the South - a dangerous and PROFITABLE business!

In July 1863, Union Troops laid siege to Fort Wagner (located on Morris Island across the bay from Fort Sumter) with the help of the 54th Regiment, the African American regiment featured in the movie Glory. More than half the regiment was lost in that battle. For his bravery at Fort Wagner, Sgt. William H. Carney became the first African American to earn the Medal of Honor, the country’s highest military honor. 

Once Union troops succeeded in taking Fort Wagner from the Confederates, they were able to set up canons pointed at Fort Sumter. Over the next 15 months, Union artillery effectively leveled Fort Sumter eventually firing nearly 50,000 projectiles at the fort between September 1863 and February 1865. Only when General William Sherman was poised to capture Charleston (after Sherman’s march to the sea), did the Confederate troops finally evacuate in February 1865. 

After our tour at Fort Sumter, it was onto exploring Charleston for the rest of the day. First stop was finding lunch outdoors that was dog friendly, too. 

For those people who have been to Charleston, you know how picturesque it is, complete with outdoor markets, horse-drawn carriages, and lots of flowers. It definitely seems like people were out and about - a welcome sight after this pandemic year. Masks were still required inside and many people on the streets were masked, so all in all, it was very comfortable. We also felt good knowing that we were all vaccinated and spending our time outside - right in line with the new CDC guidelines for masking that came out today. 

After our lunch, we went to the Old Slave Mart Museum, the first African American slave museum. It is often staffed by individuals who can trace their history to Charleston slaves. Many people don’t realize that at one point as many as 35-40% of slaves entered the United States through Charleston. The Old Slave Mart was built in 1859 and is considered the last surviving slave auction gallery in South Carolina. The Old Slave Mart was built when South Carolina prohibited outdoor slave trade on street corners - this was because city officials were concerned with the optics of chained slaves being auctioned off in full view of the public. 

One of the interesting thing we learned was the distinction between Transatlantic slave trade and domestic slave trade. The city of Charleston played an active part in both the Transatlantic and the domestic slave trading. European and American slaves traders captured and sold more than 12 million slaves to countries in Europe. South America, and the United States. Gadsden’s Wharf in Charleston was the last and most important disembarkation point for enslaved Africans coming into the United States. Completed in 1772 by slave labor, the 840 foot wharf could accommodate up to six ships at once. Over 100,000 African men, women, and children arrived in Charleston and were sold into slavery from 1783-1808.  In the early 1800s, more and more countries outlawed transatlantic slave trade (the Unites States outlawed Transatlantic slave trade in 1808), but then the slave trade moved to “domestic slave trade.” Shockingly, during the last few months of 1807, the number of imported  enslaved Africans exceeded demand and potential profits for the slave traders dropped. So the traders just put the enslaved Africans in warehouses or pens (like had been built at the Old Slave Mart) while they waited for prices to climb. Due to lack of nutrition, little clothing, and exposure, more than 700 Africans being held in pens died during the winter of 1807-1808. For these reasons, the historical marker by Gadsden’s Wharf calls it “hallowed ground.” Interestingly, in 1860 just before the Civil War started 57% of South Carolina’s residents were enslaved African Americans. 

After our time at the Old Slave Mart Museum, we enjoyed walking around historic Charleston. 

The puppies, Ellie and Monkey have been good traveling companions. One thing we’ve noticed is what a magnet two cute dogs are for all kinds of people and children. Many people stop us and ask if it’s okay to pet the dogs.They have been a real hit!







We finished our day in Charleston on a rooftop bar/restaurant with some drinks and appetizers before heading back to the campsite. 

This photo is from a couple of nights ago where Lynn was “quizzing us” on Civil War facts from some cards she bought in a museum gift shop. Seated next to her is her daughter, Anna, who is leaving us tomorrow morning. It’s been just so much fun to have Anna with us the last six days!

The Lost Cause

Before starting our “pandemic project” to learn more about the Civil War, many of us were not familiar with the term “The Lost Cause.” Now is seems to be really important to reflect on what we’ve learned in our studies and travels. In our Yale class with Dr. David Blight, many of the books we read, and even our tour guide at Antietam emphasized that the Civil War was essentially a struggle around slavery. The Southern states were extremely wealthy as a result of the slave economy they had built and were anxious to expand the slave economy. So most historians see slavery as the essential issue that led to the Civil War. This is where “The Lost Cause” enters in. 

The Lost Cause

Adapted from Wikipedia

The Lost Cause of the Confederacy, or the Lost Cause, is an ideology that advocates the belief that the cause of the Confederate States during the Civil War was a just and heroic one. This ideology includes the belief that slavery was just and moral because the enslaved people were happy, even grateful, and that the system of slavery brought economic prosperity. It emphasizes the chivalric virtues of the antebellum South. It thus views the war as a struggle to “save the Southern way of life” and to protect states’ rights. At the same time, it minimizes or completely denies the central role of slavery and white supremacy in the build-up to, and outbreak of the war. 

One particularly intense wave of Lost Cause activity occurred during World War 1 as the last Civil War veterans began to die out and a push was made to preserve their memories. This is when many of the Confederate monuments began to be added to the battlefields. A second wave of Lost Cause activity occurred as a reaction to the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s. Through activities such as the construction of prominent Confederate monuments and the writing of school history textbooks, the Lost Cause sought to ensure that future generations would know the “true” reasons for fighting the war and therefore continue to support white supremacist policies. The Lost Cause has also evolved into a major element in defining gender roles in the white South, in terms of preserving family honor and chivalrous traditions, as well as shaping religious attitudes. 

So, the question we have been asking ourselves is whether or not there has been an another increased wave of Lost Cause during the last five years and as a result of the racial unrest that was unleashed as a result of George Floyd’s death in 2020. Part of what got us started on this learning journey was asking why are the divisions so deep in our country? But as we’ve learned more about the Lost Cause, we now understand that there are huge sections of our country that still view the Civil War as basically a states rights’ battle that had little to do with slavery and systemic racism. 

Richmond, Virginia

On Sunday, we spent the day in Richmond, Virginia.

A good friend of Rob’s from Medical School is a lifelong resident of Richmond. He met us in front of the American Civil War Museum located at the site of the historic Tredegar Iron Works and gave us an overview of Richmond. He also provided a really interesting perspective of the South’s “Lost Cause” narrative as he thinks back on his own education in Virginia.

Chartered in 1837, Tredegar Iron Works was a major supplier of armament to the Confederacy during the Civil War. The foundry cast more than 1000 cannons for Lee’s troops. In addition, the foundry turned out heavy iron plates for Confederate naval vessels, including the Merrimack, the world’s first armored warship. 

The museum was excellent! Richmond served as the capital of the Confederate States of America for almost the whole of the American Civil War. It was a vital source of weapons and supplies for the war efforts and it was the terminus of five railroads. The Union made many attempts to invade Richmond throughout the course of the war. Finally, in 1864-65, General Grant laid siege to nearby Petersburg. By April 1865, Lee’s army had suffered a major defeat and retreated under heavy fire. The Confederate government fled Richmond on Lee’s recommendation lest they be captured. Rob’s friend told us that growing up he heard that the “Yanks burned the city of Richmond.” Now, historians know that the retreating Confederates chose to burn the military supplies as well as the tobacco & whiskey warehouses rather than let them fall into Union hands. The resulting fire destroyed much of central Richmond. 

The museum had exhibits that attempted to show three different perspectives for the events that occurred in Richmond - the Union perspective, the Confederate perspective, and the African American perspective. 

The other interesting thing about Richmond is the connection of the murder of George Floyd in Minnesota to Richmond’s Monument Avenue. Monument Avenue is a tree-lined avenue named for its structures honoring those who fought for the Confederacy. In the wake of the protests that followed the killing of George Floyd, the Jefferson Davis monument was torn down by protestors, while the Lee monument was ordered removed by Governor Ralph Notham. In July 2020, Richmond Mayor Levar Stoney directed the removal of the remaining Confederate monuments on city-owned land including J.E.B. Stuart, Stonewall Jackson, and Matthew Fontaine Maury.

The only things left from those monuments are the pedestals and now officials are trying to find a “more appropriate” place to put the actual statues. 

General Lee’s statue in Richmond, Virginia is a visible reminder of how the underlying divisions that led to the Civil War are still alive today. During the summer of racial reckoning in 2020, the statue of General Lee became a place for Black Lives Matters protests. While some see the transformation of the statue as an influential work of “protest art,” others deplore the destruction. In Virginia, the dramatic outburst of defacement and officially sanctioned removal of monuments has split in public opinion. A September 2020 Associated Press poll found that 46% of Virginians are in favor of removal and 42 percent are opposed. Litigation over the Lee statue has now reached the Supreme Court of Virginia. And now because the principles of governing contracts are involved, the monument’s ultimate fate could end up in the hands of the U.S. Supreme Court. 

Appomattox

As the sun rose on April 9, 1865, General Lee clung to the belief that he could still win the war. He had 8,000 men and what remained of the Confederate Cavalry lined up for a battle just west of the village of Appomattox Court House. However, Lee shortly learned that Union troops were preparing for a fight and more Federal reinforcements were on their way. Lee realized his war was over and sent a message to Grant. Grant sent a message back that he would not discuss a peace agreement, but could consider a military surrender and asked Lee to select a meeting site. Lee send an aide to Appomattox Court House and came upon Wilmer McLean who ultimately reluctantly offered the use of his home for the meeting. 

The village of Appomattox Court House has been faithfully restored to what it looked like in April 1865. We were able to go into McLean’s home, see the parlor where Grant and Lee met, and view the slave quarters behind the home. 

There are a lot of myths surrounding Lee’s surrender to Grant. One of them involves Lee’s offering his ceremonial sword that he wore, to Grant as part of the surrender. However, that did not happen. In fact according to Grant: “The much talked of surrendering of Lee’s sword and my handing it back, this and much more that has been said about it is the purest romance.”



One thing that is true is that Grant’s terms of the surrender were very generous. He required only that the Confederate surrender Confederate property. While the soldiers turned in about 27,000 guns, Grant permitted them to retain their side arms, their baggage, and their personal horses so they could make it home safely. He also agreed to provide rations of food to the starving Confederate soldiers. To ensure that the surrendering soldiers could make it home safely, each was provided with a “parole pass” that allowed them free transport (if necessary) and federal food rations along the way. Two printing presses were set up to print about 30,000 parole passes for the Confederate soldiers.  

In addition to seeing the replica of Appomattox Court House, we also spent time in a very nice Civil War Museum. One of the things that several of us learned is that Lee’s surrender at Appomattox was not the end of the war, but could be more accurately described as the “beginning of the end.” Once Lee surrendered his army, several more generals surrendered over the next several months. But it would be more than 16 months before President Andrew Johnson would declare a formal end to the conflict in August 1866. 

On Good Friday April 14, 1865, five days after General Lee’s surrender, President Lincoln was shot by John Wilkes Booth at the Ford Theatre. He died the next day. 

Mary, Rob, and Monkey Arrive

Mary and Rob met us at Appomattox on Saturday after a long drive from Minnesota. 

Ellie was SO glad to have a new playmate, too - Monkey. The dogs are having a lot of fun together and are like their own little dog park. 

Our day at Appomattox was rainy so we were able to get all nine of our group into our (Greg & Betsy’s) trailer for Happy Hour before we all eventually went back to our own trailers to make dinner. 

Everyone is having a good time!

We Split Forces Today

Anna (Tim & Lynn’s daughter) joined us yesterday and has been a great sport putting up with our “Civil War nerdiness.” After our breakfast and coffee, we split into two groups today. One group decided to take this opportunity to drive to Shenandoah National Park to do some hiking. The other group decided to visit a few more battlefields that are close to Richmond.

We keep hoping for some warmer weather, but at lunch at the National Park we were happy to have on every piece of warm clothing we brought for our hike. 

We decided on a very moderate hike leaving from the Milam Gap Trailhead which is actually part of the Appalachian  Trail. Along the way, we saw a few day hikers plus a couple of people that were doing longer through hikes on the Appalachian Trail.

There were definite signs of spring along the trail. 

You can really see why these are called the Blue Ridge Mountains. 

Meanwhile, Ellie (the puppy) led the group that went back to some additional important battlefields including Chancellorsville, the Wilderness, and Spoatsylvania. Once again, huge numbers of soldiers on both sides were killed in these battles - in fact, it seems like so many of the battles claim to be the “bloodiest battle.”

Back at our campground for dinner, we compared notes about our days. 

Kevin made his famous margaritas that we enjoyed with guacamole and chips. 

And Ellie watched over us while we had lots of fun discussing what we had done today!

Richmond

After several days at Gettysburg, we traveled to Richmond, Virginia which was the Capital of the Confederate States of America. On our way to Richmond, we stopped at Fredericksburg, Virginia which was the site of a major battle in December 1862.

The Battle of Fredericksburg was fought in December 1862 around Fredericksburg, Virginia. It was one of the most embarrassing Union defeats of the war that was complicated by the Union’s delay at the Rappahannock River due to the lack of portable pontoon bridges used to cross the river. The delay allowed General Lee time to re-unite his army and secure a very strong defensive position at the base of the Marye’s Heights in an impromptu trench formed by a stone wall bordering a sunken road. In this photo, you can see the beginning of the high ground on the left, the road, and the stone wall. As wave after wave of Union forces advanced across open fields in front of the wall, they were met by artillery fire from the entrenched Confederates. The losses from this battle were staggering - 12,653 Union soldiers killed, wounded, or missing; 5,377 Confederate soldiers killed, wounded, or missing. 

After the battle was over and hundreds of wounded Union soldiers lay on the field in front of the wall, Sgt. Richard Rowland Kirkland of the 2nd South Carolina climbed over the stone fence the next day to provide water and comfort to many wounded Union soldiers earning himself the nickname “Angel of Marye’s Heights.”

Near the battlefield is the Fredericksburg National Cemetery where a lot of the Union soldiers are buried. Because the magnitude of the losses, most of the soldiers weren’t ever identified before they were buried.

Most of the stones have two numbers - the top number is the plot number and the bottom number is the number of bodies laid to rest in that plot. Of the15,300 men buried in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery, the identities of fewer than 3,000 are known.

After the Battle of Fredericksburg, President Lincoln was heart-broken. Lincoln himself wrote, “If there is a worse place than hell, I’m in it.” This battle was a low point for President Lincoln and the North.